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  1. FABRIC STORY

    Natural Indigo 16.5oz

    We always loved the blue tone of natural indigo, it’s rich and warm but so far has had some downsides. Normally, the natural indigo dyeing process penetrates the core of the fabric to be also dyed. This means the fading process will not create any contrasts. As it is a very labour intensive dying process (a lot of it is done by hand), natural indigo fabrics end up being 4 times more expensive than fabric with pure indigo. With creating this fabric, we wanted to tackle both these issues and therefore developed a rope-dying method for natural indigo in one of our mills. This dye still goes deeper than pure indigo, which results in rich and intense shades of blue, this fabric does allow for great fades and contrasts which makes it very unique. This rope dyeing method also helped to make the fabric much more affordable while not compromising on the beauty of the natural indigo blue. We have tried a variety of cotton but in the end, but we found a cotton from Texas which takes on the indigo dye the best in our experience. The mill where we created and produce our natural indigo fabric is the only mill in Japan able to do this type of indigo rope dyeing and we sourced a special organic natural indigo from India that cannot be found anywhere else in the Japanese denim industry. This fabric is exclusive in many ways. When we produced this fabric for the first time in normal tension, we already felt this will be one of the best creations we had ever made. Now that we made it low tension, we were able to add a lot of slub and fuzziness on the surface to rival the beautiful blue of natural indigo. 

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  2. FABRIC STORY

    EARTH 18oz

    So we wanted to do a 18oz fabric with a lot of slub and a somewhat fuzzy surface. The first step in order to create a fabric is to pick the right cotton. For this denim we use 4 different types of cotton: California cotton, Texas cotton and two types of Supima Cotton from New Mexico and Arizona. American cotton in general is characterised by being hard, rough and a little oily. It is the perfect cotton for a sturdy selvedge fabric.
    We spin these cottons at a factory in Japan to a very uneven thread that has a lot of “bumps” to it. The important thing is to create unevenness in the thin and the thick areas of the fabric. The magic of a slubby fabric is having more than just bumps in the fabric, it’s about having varying degrees of unevenness and bumpiness throughout the entire fabric. Almost even unevenness, if that makes any sense.
    The Californian slub yarn by itself would break too easily when creating a fabric of the weight of the E fabric, therefore we have to combine it with the long staple supima cotton which is very strong yet soft, and makes the fabric durable and breathable. The weft yarn is reactively dyed light-beige by cheese dyeing. The warp yarn is rope-dyed with pure indigo, sulfur dye and a greencast indigo dye. We experimented for quite a long time to get what our denim makers considered the right balance between the dyes. The idea was to get those earthy colors mixed in with the indigo to get multiple color layers which will show with wear -- and the blue, green and beige were perfect to represent Earth. Afterwards, to add even more texture, the denim is woven with the lowest possible tension on old shuttle looms from the 1950s.


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  3. FABRIC STORY

    Indigo x Indigo 15oz


    Our fastest fading fabric is the ID for sure. At 15oz and thanks to its loose weave, this fabric is perfect for all seasons. The original ID fabric, which one of our denim makers conceived about 10 years ago, was lighter, but by switching to Texan cotton, we were able to make it more sturdy. The long stabled Texas cotton provides durability, yet is comfortable to wear. The slub yarn we used for this fabric also adds the many irregularities this fabric is known for. The reason why we switched to the heavier Texas cotton is also pragmatic: the ID fabric is woven on an old shuttle loom, the only one of its kind left and the craftsman who runs it found out the machine handles heavier cotton better. We dip both the weft and the warp threads in pure indigo 8 times, but the dips are done quickly so that the deep blue does not penetrate the yarn too deeply. That is the reason why this fabric fades like nothing else. Thanks to the bumpy structure, the slubby knots on the surface will reveal their white core the earliest so you can enjoy process even after minimal wear. Because of the complex and uneven structure of the denim, the output of fabric is among the most limited of all of our proprietary fabrics. There is only one machine which can make the fabric and it runs slowly due to the loose weave and low tension. Additionally, some parts of the batches end up being not usable because the old shuttle loom cannot handle some threads. The parts of the fabric we deem good enough to use for our denim rivals the best fabrics in the industry and delights our costumers for both its intense texture and its great fading potential.


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  4. FABRIC STORY
    Secret Denim 21.5oz

    Our second collaboration with ONI again focussed on the secret denim. This time around, we wanted to preserve the colour of the original while adding our Tanuki touch to the texture. We originally joked around saying there is no way to make the texture even crazier, but then it occurred to us that there is certain cotton that is both heavier and will result in a more hairy surface. This super secret denim features all the characteristics that made the secret denim one of the most loved fabrics of all time: it is slubby, neppy, vibrant colours. Yet, our version is a tad heavier and it’s that extra bit of fuzziness at the surface that adds even more complexity and intrigue to the original secret denim.       


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  5. FABRIC STORY
    Indigo x Indigo 15oz

    Our fastest fading fabric is the ID for sure. At 15oz and thanks to its loose weave, this fabric is perfect for all seasons. The original ID fabric, which one of our denim makers conceived about 10 years ago, was lighter, but by switching to Texan cotton, we were able to make it more sturdy. The long stabled Texas cotton provides durability, yet is comfortable to wear. The slub yarn we used for this fabric also adds the many irregularities this fabric is known for. The reason why we switched to the heavier Texas cotton is also pragmatic: the ID fabric is woven on an old shuttle loom, the only one of its kind left and the craftsman who runs it found out the machine handles heavier cotton better. We dip both the weft and the warp threads in pure indigo 8 times, but the dips are done quickly so that the deep blue does not penetrate the yarn too deeply. That is the reason why this fabric fades like nothing else. Thanks to the bumpy structure, the slubby knots on the surface will reveal their white core the earliest so you can enjoy process even after minimal wear. Because of the complex and uneven structure of the denim, the output of fabric is among the most limited of all of our proprietary fabrics. There is only one machine which can make the fabric and it runs slowly due to the loose weave and low tension. Additionally, some parts of the batches end up being not usable because the old shuttle loom cannot handle some threads. The parts of the fabric we deem good enough to use for our denim rivals the best fabrics in the industry and delights our costumers for both its intense texture and its great fading potential.


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