EJKT 18oz "Earth" 3rd type Jacket with handwarmers
So we wanted to do a 18oz fabric with a lot of slub and a somewhat fuzzy surface. The first step in order to create a fabric is to pick the right cotton. For this denim we use 4 different types of cotton: California cotton, Texas cotton and two types of Supima Cotton from New Mexico and Arizona. American cotton in general is characterised by being hard, rough and a little oily. It is the perfect cotton for a sturdy selvedge fabric.
We spin these cottons at a factory in Japan to a very uneven thread that has a lot of “bumps” to it. The important thing is to create unevenness in the thin and the thick areas of the fabric. The magic of a slubby fabric is having more than just bumps in the fabric, it’s about having varying degrees of unevenness and bumpiness throughout the entire fabric. Almost even unevenness, if that makes any sense.
The Californian slub yarn by itself would break too easily when creating a fabric of the weight of the E fabric, therefore we have to combine it with the long staple supima cotton which is very strong yet soft, and makes the fabric durable and breathable. The weft yarn is reactively dyed light-beige by cheese dyeing. The warp yarn is rope-dyed with pure indigo, sulfur dye and a greencast indigo dye. We experimented for quite a long time to get what our denim makers considered the right balance between the dyes. The idea was to get those earthy colors mixed in with the indigo to get multiple color layers which will show with wear -- and the blue, green and beige were perfect to represent Earth. Afterwards, to add even more texture, the denim is woven with the lowest possible tension on old shuttle looms from the 1950s.