Bottoms

26 Items results

per page
Set Descending Direction
  1. FABRIC STORY

    Retro 15oz

    The R fabric is rope dyed with pure indigo. The fabric was first made about 30 years ago when we were trying to develop a good fabric that is very dark and durable (but no selvedge). Back then, there was nothing above 14oz and darker color denim was difficult to find. As soon as we released this fabric, shops loved it and consumers as well. After several years, vintage replica jeans came to Japan and became popular and people start to look for selvedge jeans. We thought  a selvedge version of this fabric would be great and developed it. As expected, the response from the market was very positive. The original retro fabric became the champion of all fabrics for more than two decades, but production was very limited and denim in general went down in popularity in Japan after many years.

    However, there is no other blue denim fabric that has achieved such love in Japan. This fabric has been extremely well received not just denim maniacs (including some of the biggest collectors of denim in Japan) but by the general mass, which is something unprecedented. Something is special about this fabric.

    Now that Japanese denim is being appreciated in the world, we thought of bringing this fabric back but thought a premium low tension version of this fabric would be great and created it for Tanuki. Fade and the feeling of this denim has been mesmerizing people for a long time. One of the main reasons is the colour. The inky blue that sits somewhere between black and blue is outstanding. In order to achieve this we combined two different indigo dyes that work so well together. Once the fabric fades, it will reveal a lot of different nuances of blue which makes it stand out. Another important factor for the appeal of this fabric is the construction. It’s a 6.8 x 6.8  construction using Texan cotton (for it is durable, rough, and sturdy) that we pressed and spun as hard as we can. The contrast between the ultra tight yarn and the loose weave of the denim, makes this an all season fabric.

    CUT

    Tapered, relaxed top bock, aggressive taper from the knee down, low waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  2. FABRIC STORY

    EARTH 18oz

    So we wanted to do a 18oz fabric with a lot of slub and a somewhat fuzzy surface. The first step in order to create a fabric is to pick the right cotton. For this denim we use 4 different types of cotton: California cotton, Texas cotton and two types of Supima Cotton from New Mexico and Arizona. American cotton in general is characterised by being hard, rough and a little oily. It is the perfect cotton for a sturdy selvedge fabric. 

    We spin these cottons at a factory in Japan to a very uneven thread that has a lot of “bumps” to it. The important thing is to create unevenness in the thin and the thick areas of the fabric. The magic of a slubby fabric is having more than just bumps in the fabric, it’s about having varying degrees of unevenness and bumpiness throughout the entire fabric. Almost even unevenness, if that makes any sense.

    The Californian slub yarn by itself would break too easily when creating a fabric of the weight of the E fabric, therefore we have to combine it with the long staple supima cotton which is very strong yet soft, and makes the fabric durable and breathable. The weft yarn is reactively dyed light-beige by cheese dyeing. The warp yarn is rope-dyed with pure indigo, sulfur dye and a greencast indigo dye. We experimented for quite a long time to get what our denim makers considered the right balance between the dyes. The idea was to get those earthy colors mixed in with the indigo to get multiple color layers which will show with wear -- and the blue, green and beige were perfect to represent Earth. Afterwards, to add even more texture, the denim is woven with the lowest possible tension on old shuttle looms from the 1950s.

    CUT

    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  3. FABRIC STORY

    Natural Indigo 16.5oz


    We always loved the blue tone of natural indigo, it’s rich and warm but so far has had some downsides. Normally, the natural indigo dyeing process penetrates the core of the fabric to be also dyed. This means the fading process will not create any contrasts. As it is a very labour intensive dying process (a lot of it is done by hand), natural indigo fabrics end up being 4 times more expensive than fabric with pure indigo. With creating this fabric, we wanted to tackle both these issues and therefore developed a rope-dying method for natural indigo in one of our mills. This dye still goes deeper than pure indigo, which results in rich and intense shades of blue, this fabric does allow for great fades and contrasts which makes it very unique. This rope dyeing method also helped to make the fabric much more affordable while not compromising on the beauty of the natural indigo blue. We have tried a variety of cotton but in the end, but we found a cotton from Texas which takes on the indigo dye the best in our experience. The mill where we created and produce our natural indigo fabric is the only mill in Japan able to do this type of indigo rope dyeing and we sourced a special organic natural indigo from India that cannot be found anywhere else in the Japanese denim industry. This fabric is exclusive in many ways. When we produced this fabric for the first time in normal tension, we already felt this will be one of the best creations we had ever made. Now that we made it low tension, we were able to add a lot of slub and fuzziness on the surface to rival the beautiful blue of natural indigo.

    CUT

    (formerly MST) Slim Straight, slim top block, slight taper from the knee down, mid waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  4. FABRIC STORY

    KAZE 13oz

    The Kaze stands out for its unique shade of indigo.  At 13 oz, unsanforised, the Kaze is one of our lightest offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and vibrantly coloured. The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a lesser number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip. This results in some greenish undertones in the denim. This lighter blue pays homage to vintage denim, dead-stock denims from the 1960’s to the 1980’s. The denim features a light indigo warp, and cheese-dyed beige weft. The warp shows quite some loom-shutter, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.  The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort. On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense. You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or neppy, leaving nothing to distract from the colourful warp.

    CUT

    Tapered, relaxed top bock, aggressive taper from the knee down, low waist


    Quick View

    WishList

  5. FABRIC STORY

    EARTH 18oz

    So we wanted to do a 18oz fabric with a lot of slub and a somewhat fuzzy surface. The first step in order to create a fabric is to pick the right cotton. For this denim we use 4 different types of cotton: California cotton, Texas cotton and two types of Supima Cotton from New Mexico and Arizona. American cotton in general is characterised by being hard, rough and a little oily. It is the perfect cotton for a sturdy selvedge fabric. 

    We spin these cottons at a factory in Japan to a very uneven thread that has a lot of “bumps” to it. The important thing is to create unevenness in the thin and the thick areas of the fabric. The magic of a slubby fabric is having more than just bumps in the fabric, it’s about having varying degrees of unevenness and bumpiness throughout the entire fabric. Almost even unevenness, if that makes any sense.

    The Californian slub yarn by itself would break too easily when creating a fabric of the weight of the E fabric, therefore we have to combine it with the long staple supima cotton which is very strong yet soft, and makes the fabric durable and breathable. The weft yarn is reactively dyed light-beige by cheese dyeing. The warp yarn is rope-dyed with pure indigo, sulfur dye and a greencast indigo dye. We experimented for quite a long time to get what our denim makers considered the right balance between the dyes. The idea was to get those earthy colors mixed in with the indigo to get multiple color layers which will show with wear -- and the blue, green and beige were perfect to represent Earth. Afterwards, to add even more texture, the denim is woven with the lowest possible tension on old shuttle looms from the 1950s.

    CUT

    Tapered, relaxed top bock, aggressive taper from the knee down, low waist



    Quick View

    WishList

  6. FABRIC STORY

    Natural Indigo 16.5oz


    We always loved the blue tone of natural indigo, it’s rich and warm but so far has had some downsides. Normally, the natural indigo dyeing process penetrates the core of the fabric to be also dyed. This means the fading process will not create any contrasts. As it is a very labour intensive dying process (a lot of it is done by hand), natural indigo fabrics end up being 4 times more expensive than fabric with pure indigo. With creating this fabric, we wanted to tackle both these issues and therefore developed a rope-dying method for natural indigo in one of our mills. This dye still goes deeper than pure indigo, which results in rich and intense shades of blue, this fabric does allow for great fades and contrasts which makes it very unique. This rope dyeing method also helped to make the fabric much more affordable while not compromising on the beauty of the natural indigo blue. We have tried a variety of cotton but in the end, but we found a cotton from Texas which takes on the indigo dye the best in our experience. The mill where we created and produce our natural indigo fabric is the only mill in Japan able to do this type of indigo rope dyeing and we sourced a special organic natural indigo from India that cannot be found anywhere else in the Japanese denim industry. This fabric is exclusive in many ways. When we produced this fabric for the first time in normal tension, we already felt this will be one of the best creations we had ever made. Now that we made it low tension, we were able to add a lot of slub and fuzziness on the surface to rival the beautiful blue of natural indigo. 

    CUT

    Extreme Tapered, tight throughout, aggressive taper from the knee down, mid rise

    Quick View

    WishList

  7. FABRIC STORY

    Retro 15oz

    The R fabric is rope dyed with pure indigo. The fabric was first made about 30 years ago when we were trying to develop a good fabric that is very dark and durable (but no selvedge). Back then, there was nothing above 14oz and darker color denim was difficult to find. As soon as we released this fabric, shops loved it and consumers as well. After several years, vintage replica jeans came to Japan and became popular and people start to look for selvedge jeans. We thought  a selvedge version of this fabric would be great and developed it. As expected, the response from the market was very positive. The original retro fabric became the champion of all fabrics for more than two decades, but production was very limited and denim in general went down in popularity in Japan after many years.

    However, there is no other blue denim fabric that has achieved such love in Japan. This fabric has been extremely well received not just denim maniacs (including some of the biggest collectors of denim in Japan) but by the general mass, which is something unprecedented. Something is special about this fabric.

    Now that Japanese denim is being appreciated in the world, we thought of bringing this fabric back but thought a premium low tension version of this fabric would be great and created it for Tanuki. Fade and the feeling of this denim has been mesmerizing people for a long time. One of the main reasons is the colour. The inky blue that sits somewhere between black and blue is outstanding. In order to achieve this we combined two different indigo dyes that work so well together. Once the fabric fades, it will reveal a lot of different nuances of blue which makes it stand out. Another important factor for the appeal of this fabric is the construction. It’s a 6.8 x 6.8  construction using Texan cotton (for it is durable, rough, and sturdy) that we pressed and spun as hard as we can. The contrast between the ultra tight yarn and the loose weave of the denim, makes this an all season fabric.

    CUT

    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  8. FABRIC STORY

    Natural Indigo 16.5oz

    We always loved the blue tone of natural indigo, it’s rich and warm but so far has had some downsides. Normally, the natural indigo dyeing process penetrates the core of the fabric to be also dyed. This means the fading process will not create any contrasts. As it is a very labour intensive dying process (a lot of it is done by hand), natural indigo fabrics end up being 4 times more expensive than fabric with pure indigo. With creating this fabric, we wanted to tackle both these issues and therefore developed a rope-dying method for natural indigo in one of our mills. This dye still goes deeper than pure indigo, which results in rich and intense shades of blue, this fabric does allow for great fades and contrasts which makes it very unique. This rope dyeing method also helped to make the fabric much more affordable while not compromising on the beauty of the natural indigo blue. We have tried a variety of cotton but in the end, but we found a cotton from Texas which takes on the indigo dye the best in our experience. The mill where we created and produce our natural indigo fabric is the only mill in Japan able to do this type of indigo rope dyeing and we sourced a special organic natural indigo from India that cannot be found anywhere else in the Japanese denim industry. This fabric is exclusive in many ways. When we produced this fabric for the first time in normal tension, we already felt this will be one of the best creations we had ever made. Now that we made it low tension, we were able to add a lot of slub and fuzziness on the surface to rival the beautiful blue of natural indigo. 


    CUT

    Regular Straight, relaxed and wide throughout the top to the hem, high waist



    Quick View

    WishList

  9. FABRIC STORY
    Retro 15oz

    The R fabric is rope dyed with pure indigo. The fabric was first made about 30 years ago when we were trying to develop a good fabric that is very dark and durable (but no selvedge). Back then, there was nothing above 14oz and darker color denim was difficult to find. As soon as we released this fabric, shops loved it and consumers as well. After several years, vintage replica jeans came to Japan and became popular and people start to look for selvedge jeans. We thought a selvedge version of this fabric would be great and developed it. As expected, the response from the market was very positive. The original retro fabric became the champion of all fabrics for more than two decades, but production was very limited and denim in general went down in popularity in Japan after many years.

    However, there is no other blue denim fabric that has achieved such love in Japan. This fabric has been extremely well received not just denim maniacs (including some of the biggest collectors of denim in Japan) but by the general mass, which is something unprecedented. Something is special about this fabric.

    Now that Japanese denim is being appreciated in the world, we thought of bringing this fabric back but thought a premium low tension version of this fabric would be great and created it for Tanuki. Fade and the feeling of this denim has been mesmerizing people for a long time. One of the main reasons is the colour. The inky blue that sits somewhere between black and blue is outstanding. In order to achieve this we combined two different indigo dyes that work so well together. Once the fabric fades, it will reveal a lot of different nuances of blue which makes it stand out. Another important factor for the appeal of this fabric is the construction. It’s a 6.8 x 6.8 construction using Texan cotton (for it is durable, rough, and sturdy) that we pressed and spun as hard as we can. The contrast between the ultra tight yarn and the loose weave of the denim, makes this an all season fabric.

    CUT
    Regular Straight, relaxed and wide throughout the top to the hem, high waist


    Quick View

    WishList

  10. FABRIC STORY
    Retro 15oz

    The R fabric is rope dyed with pure indigo. The fabric was first made about 30 years ago when we were trying to develop a good fabric that is very dark and durable (but no selvedge). Back then, there was nothing above 14oz and darker color denim was difficult to find. As soon as we released this fabric, shops loved it and consumers as well. After several years, vintage replica jeans came to Japan and became popular and people start to look for selvedge jeans. We thought a selvedge version of this fabric would be great and developed it. As expected, the response from the market was very positive. The original retro fabric became the champion of all fabrics for more than two decades, but production was very limited and denim in general went down in popularity in Japan after many years.

    However, there is no other blue denim fabric that has achieved such love in Japan. This fabric has been extremely well received not just denim maniacs (including some of the biggest collectors of denim in Japan) but by the general mass, which is something unprecedented. Something is special about this fabric.

    Now that Japanese denim is being appreciated in the world, we thought of bringing this fabric back but thought a premium low tension version of this fabric would be great and created it for Tanuki. Fade and the feeling of this denim has been mesmerizing people for a long time. One of the main reasons is the colour. The inky blue that sits somewhere between black and blue is outstanding. In order to achieve this we combined two different indigo dyes that work so well together. Once the fabric fades, it will reveal a lot of different nuances of blue which makes it stand out. Another important factor for the appeal of this fabric is the construction. It’s a 6.8 x 6.8 construction using Texan cotton (for it is durable, rough, and sturdy) that we pressed and spun as hard as we can. The contrast between the ultra tight yarn and the loose weave of the denim, makes this an all season fabric.

    CUT

    (formerly MST) Slim Straight, slim top block, slight taper from the knee down, mid waist


    Quick View

    WishList

  11. FABRIC STORY

    Indigo x Indigo 15oz

    Our fastest fading fabric is the ID for sure. At 15oz and thanks to its loose weave, this fabric is perfect for all seasons. The original ID fabric, which one of our denim makers conceived about 10 years ago, was lighter, but by switching to Texan cotton, we were able to make it more sturdy. The long stabled Texas cotton provides durability, yet is comfortable to wear. The slub yarn we used for this fabric also adds the many irregularities this fabric is known for. The reason why we switched to the heavier Texas cotton is also pragmatic: the ID fabric is woven on an old shuttle loom, the only one of its kind left and the craftsman who runs it found out the machine handles heavier cotton better. We dip both the weft and the warp threads in pure indigo 8 times, but the dips are done quickly so that the deep blue does not penetrate the yarn too deeply. That is the reason why this fabric fades like nothing else. Thanks to the bumpy structure, the slubby knots on the surface will reveal their white core the earliest so you can enjoy process even after minimal wear. Because of the complex and uneven structure of the denim, the output of fabric is among the most limited of all of our proprietary fabrics. There is only one machine which can make the fabric and it runs slowly due to the loose weave and low tension. Additionally, some parts of the batches end up being not usable because the old shuttle loom cannot handle some threads. The parts of the fabric we deem good enough to use for our denim rivals the best fabrics in the industry and delights our costumers for both its intense texture and its great fading potential.

    CUT
    Tapered, relaxed top bock, aggressive taper from the knee down, low waist


    Quick View

    WishList

  12. FABRIC STORY
    Zetto 14oz

    The Zetto denim is based in texture and dye on a fabric that was created by one of our denim makers roughly 15 years ago. At that time, the trend in the denim industry shifted from densely woven fabrics to low tension weaving. At that point, the mills in Japan had very little experience with low tension weaving and our denim maker experimented with the setting of his vintage shuttle loom to achieve the desired loose structure. However, he rigged the old machine in a way that produced a fabric of an uneven, slubby texture that he has never seen before. In some way, the original Zetto fabric was born by accident.  Since the inception of this slubby denim, the Tanuki denim makers have been able to steadily improve this fabric. Today’s Zetto fabric is an improvement over the original fabric. It is called Z (zetto) because in Japan Z means special and this fabric definitely worthy to be called special. To this very day we use the original shuttle loom on which that fabric was created and it is the only loom able to produce it. Therefore, the output of this fabric is extremely limited. Making Zetto also takes a lot of time: it is like throwing a ball slowly compared to throwing a ball fast. A fast ball flies straight, a slow ball does not. This creates the unique and irregular texture, but it takes us twice the time to make. After the floods of 2018, the machine was severely damaged and we were certain this would be the end of this beautiful fabric. It took over a year to restore the machine and the newest Zetto is all the better for it.

    We use Texan cotton as the longer stable is the perfect base for the irregular surface. It is also a very rough cotton that softens up with wear like few other fibres. The yarns are rope dyed and is dipped in pure indigo six times, but the dips are done slightly quicker to achieve a marginally lighter blue tone which allows for the weft to shine through at the surface. The yarn for Z fabric is highly unstable because it is spun loosely (unlike i.e. R or N fabrics) to increase the fading speed. The yellowish ecru weft lends a nice vintage sepia colour and feel to the fabric.

    CUT
    Tapered, relaxed top bock, aggressive taper from the knee down, low waist



    Quick View

    WishList

  13. FABRIC STORY

    Secret Denim 21.5oz

    Our second collaboration with ONI again focussed on the secret denim. This time around, we wanted to preserve the colour of the original while adding our Tanuki touch to the texture. We originally joked around saying there is no way to make the texture even crazier, but then it occurred to us that there is certain cotton that is both heavier and will result in a more hairy surface. This super secret denim features all the characteristics that made the secret denim one of the most loved fabrics of all time: it is slubby, neppy, vibrant colours. Yet, our version is a tad heavier and it’s that extra bit of fuzziness at the surface that adds even more complexity and intrigue to the original secret denim.       

    CUT
    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist


    Quick View

    WishList

  14. FABRIC STORY
    Natural Indigo 16.5oz

    We always loved the blue tone of natural indigo, it’s rich and warm but so far has had some downsides. Normally, the natural indigo dyeing process penetrates the core of the fabric to be also dyed. This means the fading process will not create any contrasts. As it is a very labour intensive dying process (a lot of it is done by hand), natural indigo fabrics end up being 4 times more expensive than fabric with pure indigo. With creating this fabric, we wanted to tackle both these issues and therefore developed a rope-dying method for natural indigo in one of our mills. This dye still goes deeper than pure indigo, which results in rich and intense shades of blue, this fabric does allow for great fades and contrasts which makes it very unique. This rope dyeing method also helped to make the fabric much more affordable while not compromising on the beauty of the natural indigo blue. We have tried a variety of cotton but in the end, but we found a cotton from Texas which takes on the indigo dye the best in our experience. The mill where we created and produce our natural indigo fabric is the only mill in Japan able to do this type of indigo rope dyeing and we sourced a special organic natural indigo from India that cannot be found anywhere else in the Japanese denim industry. This fabric is exclusive in many ways. When we produced this fabric for the first time in normal tension, we already felt this will be one of the best creations we had ever made. Now that we made it low tension, we were able to add a lot of slub and fuzziness on the surface to rival the beautiful blue of natural indigo. 

    CUT
    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  15. FABRIC STORY
    Indigo x Indigo 15oz

    Our fastest fading fabric is the ID for sure. At 15oz and thanks to its loose weave, this fabric is perfect for all seasons. The original ID fabric, which one of our denim makers conceived about 10 years ago, was lighter, but by switching to Texan cotton, we were able to make it more sturdy. The long stabled Texas cotton provides durability, yet is comfortable to wear. The slub yarn we used for this fabric also adds the many irregularities this fabric is known for. The reason why we switched to the heavier Texas cotton is also pragmatic: the ID fabric is woven on an old shuttle loom, the only one of its kind left and the craftsman who runs it found out the machine handles heavier cotton better. We dip both the weft and the warp threads in pure indigo 8 times, but the dips are done quickly so that the deep blue does not penetrate the yarn too deeply. That is the reason why this fabric fades like nothing else. Thanks to the bumpy structure, the slubby knots on the surface will reveal their white core the earliest so you can enjoy process even after minimal wear. Because of the complex and uneven structure of the denim, the output of fabric is among the most limited of all of our proprietary fabrics. There is only one machine which can make the fabric and it runs slowly due to the loose weave and low tension. Additionally, some parts of the batches end up being not usable because the old shuttle loom cannot handle some threads. The parts of the fabric we deem good enough to use for our denim rivals the best fabrics in the industry and delights our costumers for both its intense texture and its great fading potential.

    CUT
    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  16. FABRIC STORY
    Secret Denim Natural 20oz

    ONI’s secret denim is one of the most loved fabrics of all time and we have been long time admirers. When the opportunity presented itself to do a collaboration, we instantly knew that we wanted to experiment with that very fabric. We wanted to keep the general structure and texture of the denim but wanted to add a different shade of blue. Therefore, we applied the dyeing technique, which we developed for our N fabric, to the warp yarn. This resulted in a deeper, warmer shade of indigo without compromising on the outstanding texture of the secret denim. 

    CUT
    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist


    Quick View

    WishList

  17. FABRIC STORY
    KAZE 13oz

    The Kaze stands out for its unique shade of indigo.  At 13 oz, unsanforised, the Kaze is one of our lightest offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and vibrantly coloured. The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a lesser number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip. This results in some greenish undertones in the denim. This lighter blue pays homage to vintage denim, dead-stock denims from the 1960’s to the 1980’s. The denim features a light indigo warp, and cheese-dyed beige weft. The warp shows quite some loom-shutter, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.  The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort. On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense. You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or neppy, leaving nothing to distract from the colourful warp.

    CUT

    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  18. FABRIC STORY

    TEN 12.5oz 

    Most of us give their jeans a break during the summer as the temperatures are just too high for wearing denim. Alternatively, people go for lightweight denim which is rather bland and faceless in texture. Our goal was to change this and create the perfect lightweight denim. Ten (天) stands for knotty and spotty, but also for the sky, which sums the characteristics of this slubby lightweight fabric perfectly. At 12.5oz, this super low tension fabric is extremely breathable without compromising on texture usually only to be found on denim a lot heavier. The combination of Texan cotton and pima cotton for the warp and South American (Peru) cotton for the weft allow for some of the most irregular and textured denims that we have ever made. The density of the weft is a lot higher than the warp yarn which resulted in all the slub and hairiness we could hope for. Another important aspect of this fabric is the dye. While the warp yarn is rope dyed in pure indigo, we dyed the horizontal threads of the weft with a light beige by cheese dyeing. The concentration of the dye is very low at only 25% which gives the warp a unique look and adds depths to the entire fabric. We are truly experienced with low tension weaving but for the TEN fabric we really pushed the boundaries of what is possible. It takes a lot longer than regular denim but it is worth the wait: this fabric can be worn even in the hottest months while rivalling the heaviest fabrics in terms of texture.

    CUT
    Tapered, relaxed top bock, aggressive taper from the knee down, low waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  19. FABRIC STORY

    TEN 12.5oz 

    Most of us give their jeans a break during the summer as the temperatures are just too high for wearing denim. Alternatively, people go for lightweight denim which is rather bland and faceless in texture. Our goal was to change this and create the perfect lightweight denim. Ten (天) stands for knotty and spotty, but also for the sky, which sums the characteristics of this slubby lightweight fabric perfectly. At 12.5oz, this super low tension fabric is extremely breathable without compromising on texture usually only to be found on denim a lot heavier. The combination of Texan cotton and pima cotton for the warp and South American (Peru) cotton for the weft allow for some of the most irregular and textured denims that we have ever made. The density of the weft is a lot higher than the warp yarn which resulted in all the slub and hairiness we could hope for. Another important aspect of this fabric is the dye. While the warp yarn is rope dyed in pure indigo, we dyed the horizontal threads of the weft with a light beige by cheese dyeing. The concentration of the dye is very low at only 25% which gives the warp a unique look and adds depths to the entire fabric. We are truly experienced with low tension weaving but for the TEN fabric we really pushed the boundaries of what is possible. It takes a lot longer than regular denim but it is worth the wait: this fabric can be worn even in the hottest months while rivalling the heaviest fabrics in terms of texture.

    CUT
    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  20. FABRIC STORY

    Natural Indigo Stretch 16.5oz

    We always loved the blue tone of natural indigo, it’s rich and warm but so far has had some downsides. Normally, the natural indigo dyeing process penetrates the core of the fabric to be also dyed. This means the fading process will not create any contrasts. As it is a very labour intensive dying process (a lot of it is done by hand), natural indigo fabrics end up being 4 times more expensive than fabric with pure indigo. With creating this fabric, we wanted to tackle both these issues and therefore developed a rope-dying method for natural indigo in one of our mills. This dye still goes deeper than pure indigo, which results in rich and intense shades of blue, this fabric does allow for great fades and contrasts which makes it very unique. This rope dyeing method also helped to make the fabric much more affordable while not compromising on the beauty of the natural indigo blue. We have tried a variety of cotton but in the end, but we found a cotton from Texas which takes on the indigo dye the best in our experience. The mill where we created and produce our natural indigo fabric is the only mill in Japan able to do this type of indigo rope dyeing and we sourced a special organic natural indigo from India that cannot be found anywhere else in the Japanese denim industry. This fabric is exclusive in many ways. When we produced this fabric for the first time in normal tension, we already felt this will be one of the best creations we had ever made. Now that we made it low tension, we were able to add a lot of slub and fuzziness on the surface to rival the beautiful blue of natural indigo. 

    CUT

    Tapered, relaxed top bock, aggressive taper from the knee down, low waist


    Quick View

    WishList

  21. FABRIC STORY
    Indigo x Indigo 15oz

    Our fastest fading fabric is the ID for sure. At 15oz and thanks to its loose weave, this fabric is perfect for all seasons. The original ID fabric, which one of our denim makers conceived about 10 years ago, was lighter, but by switching to Texan cotton, we were able to make it more sturdy. The long stabled Texas cotton provides durability, yet is comfortable to wear. The slub yarn we used for this fabric also adds the many irregularities this fabric is known for. The reason why we switched to the heavier Texas cotton is also pragmatic: the ID fabric is woven on an old shuttle loom, the only one of its kind left and the craftsman who runs it found out the machine handles heavier cotton better. We dip both the weft and the warp threads in pure indigo 8 times, but the dips are done quickly so that the deep blue does not penetrate the yarn too deeply. That is the reason why this fabric fades like nothing else. Thanks to the bumpy structure, the slubby knots on the surface will reveal their white core the earliest so you can enjoy process even after minimal wear. Because of the complex and uneven structure of the denim, the output of fabric is among the most limited of all of our proprietary fabrics. There is only one machine which can make the fabric and it runs slowly due to the loose weave and low tension. Additionally, some parts of the batches end up being not usable because the old shuttle loom cannot handle some threads. The parts of the fabric we deem good enough to use for our denim rivals the best fabrics in the industry and delights our costumers for both its intense texture and its great fading potential.

    CUT
    Regular Straight, relaxed and wide throughout the top to the hem, high waist

    Quick View

    WishList

  22. FABRIC STORY
    Retro Stretch 15oz

    The R fabric is rope dyed with pure indigo. The fabric was first made about 30 years ago when we were trying to develop a good fabric that is very dark and durable (but no selvedge). Back then, there was nothing above 14oz and darker color denim was difficult to find. As soon as we released this fabric, shops loved it and consumers as well. After several years, vintage replica jeans came to Japan and became popular and people start to look for selvedge jeans. We thought  a selvedge version of this fabric would be great and developed it. As expected, the response from the market was very positive. The original retro fabric became the champion of all fabrics for more than two decades, but production was very limited and denim in general went down in popularity in Japan after many years.

    However, there is no other blue denim fabric that has achieved such love in Japan. This fabric has been extremely well received not just denim maniacs (including some of the biggest collectors of denim in Japan) but by the general mass, which is something unprecedented. Something is special about this fabric.

    Now that Japanese denim is being appreciated in the world, we thought of bringing this fabric back but thought a premium low tension version of this fabric would be great and created it for Tanuki. Fade and the feeling of this denim has been mesmerizing people for a long time. One of the main reasons is the colour. The inky blue that sits somewhere between black and blue is outstanding. In order to achieve this we combined two different indigo dyes that work so well together. Once the fabric fades, it will reveal a lot of different nuances of blue which makes it stand out. Another important factor for the appeal of this fabric is the construction. It’s a 6.8 x 6.8  construction using Texan cotton (for it is durable, rough, and sturdy) that we pressed and spun as hard as we can. The contrast between the ultra tight yarn and the loose weave of the denim, makes this an all season fabric.

    CUT
    Fuma, Ninja pants, relaxed top block, extreme taper from the knee down, mid rise

    Quick View

    WishList

  23. FABRIC STORY

    EARTH 18oz

    So we wanted to do a 18oz fabric with a lot of slub and a somewhat fuzzy surface. The first step in order to create a fabric is to pick the right cotton. For this denim we use 4 different types of cotton: California cotton, Texas cotton and two types of Supima Cotton from New Mexico and Arizona. American cotton in general is characterised by being hard, rough and a little oily. It is the perfect cotton for a sturdy selvedge fabric. 

    We spin these cottons at a factory in Japan to a very uneven thread that has a lot of “bumps” to it. The important thing is to create unevenness in the thin and the thick areas of the fabric. The magic of a slubby fabric is having more than just bumps in the fabric, it’s about having varying degrees of unevenness and bumpiness throughout the entire fabric. Almost even unevenness, if that makes any sense.

    The Californian slub yarn by itself would break too easily when creating a fabric of the weight of the E fabric, therefore we have to combine it with the long staple supima cotton which is very strong yet soft, and makes the fabric durable and breathable. The weft yarn is reactively dyed light-beige by cheese dyeing. The warp yarn is rope-dyed with pure indigo, sulfur dye and a greencast indigo dye. We experimented for quite a long time to get what our denim makers considered the right balance between the dyes. The idea was to get those earthy colors mixed in with the indigo to get multiple color layers which will show with wear -- and the blue, green and beige were perfect to represent Earth. Afterwards, to add even more texture, the denim is woven with the lowest possible tension on old shuttle looms from the 1950s.

    CUT
    Regular Straight, relaxed and wide throughout the top to the hem, high waist


    Quick View

    WishList

  24. FABRIC STORY

    KAZE 13oz

    The Kaze stands out for its unique shade of indigo.  At 13 oz, unsanforised, the Kaze is one of our lightest offerings. It is breathable, medium weight and vibrantly coloured. The lighter shade of indigo is due to a number of different factors, including a lesser number of rope dye dips, decrease in the time of each dip and quicker exposure to oxygen after each dip. This results in some greenish undertones in the denim. This lighter blue pays homage to vintage denim, dead-stock denims from the 1960’s to the 1980’s. The denim features a light indigo warp, and cheese-dyed beige weft. The warp shows quite some loom-shutter, with frequent slubbing of small to moderate sizes. Thanks to the Peruvian Aspero cotton used and the extra low-tension weaving, the handle of this denim is textured but not rough.  The combination of shorter staple Californian cotton and longer staple Supima cotton in the weft creates a balance between crispness and comfort. On closer inspection, the texture is rather intense. You’ll see also that the Kaze is not hairy or neppy, leaving nothing to distract from the colourful warp.


    Quick View

    WishList

  25. FABRIC STORY

    Zetto 14oz

    The Zetto denim is based in texture and dye on a fabric that was created by one of our denim makers roughly 15 years ago. At that time, the trend in the denim industry shifted from densely woven fabrics to low tension weaving. At that point, the mills in Japan had very little experience with low tension weaving and our denim maker experimented with the setting of his vintage shuttle loom to achieve the desired loose structure. However, he rigged the old machine in a way that produced a fabric of an uneven, slubby texture that he has never seen before. In some way, the original Zetto fabric was born by accident.  Since the inception of this slubby denim, the Tanuki denim makers have been able to steadily improve this fabric. Today’s Zetto fabric is an improvement over the original fabric. It is called Z (zetto) because in Japan Z means special and this fabric definitely worthy to be called special. To this very day we use the original shuttle loom on which that fabric was created and it is the only loom able to produce it. Therefore, the output of this fabric is extremely limited. Making Zetto also takes a lot of time: it is like throwing a ball slowly compared to throwing a ball fast. A fast ball flies straight, a slow ball does not. This creates the unique and irregular texture, but it takes us twice the time to make. After the floods of 2018, the machine was severely damaged and we were certain this would be the end of this beautiful fabric. It took over a year to restore the machine and the newest Zetto is all the better for it.

    We use Texan cotton as the longer stable is the perfect base for the irregular surface. It is also a very rough cotton that softens up with wear like few other fibres. The yarns are rope dyed and is dipped in pure indigo six times, but the dips are done slightly quicker to achieve a marginally lighter blue tone which allows for the weft to shine through at the surface. The yarn for Z fabric is highly unstable because it is spun loosely (unlike i.e. R or N fabrics) to increase the fading speed. The yellowish ecru weft lends a nice vintage sepia colour and feel to the fabric.


    Quick View

    WishList

  26. FABRIC STORY

    Zetto 14oz

    The Zetto denim is based in texture and dye on a fabric that was created by one of our denim makers roughly 15 years ago. At that time, the trend in the denim industry shifted from densely woven fabrics to low tension weaving. At that point, the mills in Japan had very little experience with low tension weaving and our denim maker experimented with the setting of his vintage shuttle loom to achieve the desired loose structure. However, he rigged the old machine in a way that produced a fabric of an uneven, slubby texture that he has never seen before. In some way, the original Zetto fabric was born by accident.  Since the inception of this slubby denim, the Tanuki denim makers have been able to steadily improve this fabric. Today’s Zetto fabric is an improvement over the original fabric. It is called Z (zetto) because in Japan Z means special and this fabric definitely worthy to be called special. To this very day we use the original shuttle loom on which that fabric was created and it is the only loom able to produce it. Therefore, the output of this fabric is extremely limited. Making Zetto also takes a lot of time: it is like throwing a ball slowly compared to throwing a ball fast. A fast ball flies straight, a slow ball does not. This creates the unique and irregular texture, but it takes us twice the time to make. After the floods of 2018, the machine was severely damaged and we were certain this would be the end of this beautiful fabric. It took over a year to restore the machine and the newest Zetto is all the better for it.

    We use Texan cotton as the longer stable is the perfect base for the irregular surface. It is also a very rough cotton that softens up with wear like few other fibres. The yarns are rope dyed and is dipped in pure indigo six times, but the dips are done slightly quicker to achieve a marginally lighter blue tone which allows for the weft to shine through at the surface. The yarn for Z fabric is highly unstable because it is spun loosely (unlike i.e. R or N fabrics) to increase the fading speed. The yellowish ecru weft lends a nice vintage sepia colour and feel to the fabric.

    CUT
    High Tapered, relaxed top block, aggressive taper from the knees down, high waist

    Quick View

    WishList

26 Items results

per page
Set Descending Direction